Shatin Inn, Tai Po Road

Here’s one I found purely by accident. Walking up the hill past Tai Wai New Village, I noticed what looked like a small 1 storey ramshackle building with a corrugated iron roof. It’s tucked neatly away in the shadow of the new Tai Po Road trunk system and looks fairly innocuous, but interesting enough for me to go and have a sneaky peak to see what it was.It turns out that I had stumbled on some of Hong Kong’s rich gastronomic heritage. The small ramshackle building turned out to be the Shatin Inn – a locally famous Indonesian satay restaurant with a reasonably long history (for HK at least) in this part of the New Territories.

I’ve done a bit of googling on this place and have found references to it back in the 1960′s. But why at this particular spot in Tai Wai?

Well, this is where the historical side kicks in because it sits on what used to the main thoroughfare from Kowloon down into this part of the NT. The thoroughfare I refer to is, of course, the Tai Po Road. The Tai Po Road winds a course from the north end of Kowloon, through the Kowloon hills and down into the Shatin Valley. Once here it skirts what used to be the old seashore before heading back up into the hills on its way into Tai Po and beyond.

The seashore has seen extensive reclamation as Shatin became a burgeoning “New Town” to house HK’s equally burgeoning population,  and part of the reclaimed land was used to build the Tolo Highway.

In its heyday, the Shatin Inn was a popular stopping point along a very long road and was also helped a great deal with visits from the clientele of  the long disappeared Shatin Heights Hotel (more on that some other time). With the opening of the Tolo Highway in 1985, this part of the Tai Po Rd saw a big drop in traffic and as such the Shatin Inn saw a big drop in customers.

Despite this it has a well established and loyal customer base who have been going back to the place time and time again – maybe attracted by the tasty, but simple, menu, and perhaps largely for nostalgic reasons. It could also be because it featured in a 1990 Chow Yun Fat film called “All About Ah-Long“.

The attraction for me? Well, other than its historical significance, it’s a very simple place, no-frills-but-friendly atmosphere run by friendly people serving some very tasty Indonesian morsels. Despite the fact that its location is now somewhat ‘hidden’ it still has a large area to park your car if you fancy driving there and there is a pleasant verandha in the front to sit and enjoy the breeze on a hot day – sheltered by some nice big green trees.

In case you fancy trying it out, here is the address:

新界, 沙田, G/F 7.5 milestone, Tai Po Road

電話號碼: 852 26911425

(I haven’t looked for or found the 7.5 milstone yet, but next time I am in that area I’ll have a look for it).

Here are the GoogleEarth coordinates as well in case it’s useful:

22°22’23.40″N 114°10’25.92″E

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22 Responses to “Shatin Inn, Tai Po Road”

  1. I also used to live to live at KK Terrace, 7 mile stone, Tai Po Road: 1970-1984. What wonderful memories I have of that place! I lived next door to Toni R and we had so many fun times together. We took the school bus every morning from the Shatin Heights Hotel and were dropped off at the bottom of the KK Terrace driveway every afternoon. The bus trips were always such fun, with the kids from Shatin Heights Road, Keng Hau Road and Caldecott Road (top and bottom blocks).

    Some great memories of that era include:
    - drinking ice cream sodas in the outdoor seating area of Shatin Heights Hotel and using the coin operated binoculars (machine) to look at Amah’s Rock and Lion Rock across the valley.
    - going for walks in the valley with my brother and visiting the candle factory, the copper factory, the flip flop factory and the cotton dying factory. We were given free samples at every factory.
    - going bike riding around Lower Shing Mun Reservoir.
    - taking our dogs for a bushwalk along the canal that flows into the Kowloon Reservoir. We used to ride from KK Terrace, past Tai Po Road Lookout (it’s still there), past a large house called ‘Tatiara’ and past the ‘Waterworks’ below.
    - playing with friends that lived on Shatin Heights Road, in Mount Pleasure, the Vona Building, Albert Villa and the Pink House.
    - hiring bikes in Shatin and riding around the village (in the early 70s there were NO high rises in Shatin, just a few shops including a small grocery store called ‘Y.C. King Store’. In those days (before reclamation) the water came right up to Shatin.
    - swimming at a waterhole we named ‘the creek’, on the south eastern side of Shatin Valley. After a typhoon, the creek was so flooded, it was more fun than going to a waterpark!

    If anyone would like any info (or photos) about Shatin in the 70s-80s, please feel free to contact me at daina@unwired.com.au

  2. I remember having lunch on a Sunday at the shatin inn. We also lived in the Carlton hotel on tai po road.the views of hong kong from the Carlton hotel were amazing back in the late 1970′s and early 1980′s. The school bus used to pick me up from tai po road when it remember me. I also remember walking up tai po road to see the monkeys that lived in the trees along tai po road.

    • Hi cosmopokey – great to hear all these old memories. I’ll try and grab a snap of the area soon and stick it up.
      Cheers
      Phil

      • That would be great to see what the area looks like now, I can imagine that there is ot a lot left from those days with all the building that’s gone on.

  3. Hi I had lunch at he shatin inn in October last year and it was as good as the 70′s when I grew up about a k up the road at KK Terrace opposite the Shatin Heights Hotel. The school bus used to pick us up from the car park of the hotel every morning. the shatin inn is exactly the same as 40 years ago, same play equip and everything. The 7 mile marker is just up the road past KK Terrace.

    • Hi Toni

      Funnily enough I noticed KK terrace when I was down this way for this entry a few weeks ago and was intrigued by its appearance i.e. looks too stylish to be a modern development. Sure enough it was built sometime around the mid-60′s. Nice to know that the Inn is the same after all these years – just a shame about the prices :-)

      Is the marker still there? I had a feeling they had been removed but would love to find an existing stone.

      Anyway, thanks for the memories. It’s always great to hear about these places from the past.

      Cheers
      Phil

  4. *sigh* I’m very disappointed. I went back to the Shatin Inn the other week and had a most unsatisfactory eating experience. Wrong order came and the prices are getting quite high considering the quality of the food. I guess I won’t moan too much because I enjoy the location and the ambiance, but still unless the food gets better this is another place that will disappear into the history books.

  5. Hi Phil,

    Love your blog! I’ll try and make a pilgrimage to the Shatin Inn on my next trip to HK, especially since I like to fill up on Indonesian food whenever I visit.

    BTW, here’s an article from Southern Screen magazine (October 1962) featuring Shaw stars Margaret Tu Chuan and Fanny Fan visiting the Carlton Hotel in Shatin Heights.

    Take care,
    Dave

    • orientalsweetlips Says:

      Hi Dave thanks for the comments – ditto for your excellent blog on Chinese cinema. I hope to go up to Shatin Heights and see if there are any traces left of the hotel (doubtful, but you never know). The place has changed so much and I suspect what was once an amazing view over the Shatin Sea is now blocked by the recently built flyovers.

      I think I caught a glimpse of a Shaw’s film that used the hotel for a scene or two, but I’m not sure and unfortunately I have no idea which film it was. It could have been at the Yucca De Lac (now also gone). Any ideas?

      Cheers
      Phil

      • I’m afraid I’ve seen too many Shaw movies to remember what that film might be. If I come across it, I’ll let you know.

        BTW, this clip of a scene at the Yucca De Lac just appeared on YouTube recently.

        I’m always amazed whenever I watch a film at the Hong Kong Film Archive how excited the audience gets excited when they see some landmark that no longer exists. Because the city has changed so much, old Hong Kong movies have an added historical value.

      • orientalsweetlips Says:

        yes it’s unfortunate that the only way many places can be seen these days is through the old films and photos. It’s really quite sad.

        I pass the Yucca De Lac location quite often and there is still building work going on there. Another great location being turned into a private housing development. *sigh*

    • Actually Dave, I should update you with some information I have found out since this was posted. The Carlton Hotel was in fact at an entirely different location altogether. It was actually on the Kowloon end of the Taipo Road at the 4 milestone mark with views overlooking Kowloon. It is perhaps easy to confuse the two hotels because they are both on Taipo Rd and of course, neither exists anymore.

      Anyway, you can check out this post on Gwulo for the exact location to give you some context: http://gwulo.com/node/7323

      Cheers, Phil

  6. David Leffman Says:

    Is this place just off the roundabout at Lower Shing Mun Road? See p.144 of the Hong Kong Guidebook…

    • orientalsweetlips Says:

      yes, just off the roundabout that connects Lower Shing Mun Road with Tai Po Road – Shatin Heights Section. The road layout has completely changed though since the trunk system was completed and now the place is covered in flyovers – much like Junction 6 of the M1.

      P144…are you sure?

    • What is this book?

  7. David Leffman Says:

    Hey, top find!

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