Mido Cafe, Yau Ma Tei
I’ve been meaning to go here for quite some time because it combines several of my interests. It’s housed in one of those rare gems found in HK: an old and very stylish building. It’s amazing how many times in HK age and style seem to be found together in one package (though that doesn’t seem to apply to people 
).
Not only is it old but it is also one of the better looked-after ones and seems to have undergone some refurbishment in the last few years including re-opening some previously boxed-in balcony space.
The cafe is as old as the building it seems and the menus inside proudly proclaim that it has been running since 1950. Whether it’s family run and is still the same family I have no idea and I can’t actually determine the building’s proper age – neither the Govt’s Ratings and Valuations Brochure nor the recently introduced (to me) Centamap faciliity shows its build year. However, we can safely assume it was certainly there in 1955, the reason why I shall explain in a moment.
When you go inside and up to the first floor room you will see that the owners are well aware of it being in the background of one of the scenes in The World of Suzie Wong (filmed in ’59, released in ’60) when Lomax is outside the front of the nearby Tin Hau Temple. But it seems that no one has informed them that you can also see the building – 5 years earlier – in a similar background shot when Clark Gable goes to visit the same temple in 1955′s Soldier of Fortune.
Yes, that’s it on the left hand side of the screen shot, compared to a similar angle taken today. It seems that the only thing that hasn’t changed here is the cafe itself.
Anyway, I notice that the Big Bus Tour stops right outside so that people an go and visit the temple. Well heck, why doesn’t everyone take the opportunity to come and visit its historical neighbour as well and partake in some true HK-style baked pork chop rice and cold lemon tea. The place has an English menu so there really is nothing to stop them.
October 6, 2011 at 4:14 pm
My wife and I used to go there from time to time to chomp on a jyu pa baau when we lived in nearby On Cheong Street nearly. No air-con on the upper floor in those days – nearly 20 years ago.
October 6, 2011 at 5:56 pm
I’ll try the Jyu pa bau next time. I used to get mine from the Macau restaurant on Lock Road until one day I was chomping on some very tasty fried rice and came across what looked like a very large (and fried) woodlouse. Well actually, to be more accurate it was in fact half a very large woodlouse. I can only guess at what happened to the other half.
Sounds like the Mido may be a good replacement.
October 5, 2011 at 10:10 pm
Hi Phil –
Strange but true: I think I visited the Mido Cafe more frequently as a visitor to Hong Kong than as a resident. Thing is that I find it atmospheric but the food just not as good as at many other nearby places! Still, must say that I’m glad that it’s managed to survive up until now.
October 6, 2011 at 12:01 am
Hi Yvonne – I think it’s great. Sure, the food is nothing special but it’s good solid Cantonese cafe dishes served in a great environment and I just love the building. I’m a big fan of nostalgia and you get it in big spoonfuls at the Mido (served with condensed milk!!).
October 5, 2011 at 9:43 pm
Ah finally a post about the MIdo — me and my family love this place. The food is not like “wow” but certainly the building is an absolute gem and the interior mosaic tiles and old cash register are just brilliant. Love it!!
October 5, 2011 at 11:54 pm
It was great, really nice atmosphere. The food was by no means fantastic but I have paid a lot more for a lot worse and actually my Jue Pa Fan was pretty good and hot out of the oven. I’d go back in a shot. Maybe better at night when you can sit by the upstairs window and watch the people going in and out of Temple St.
October 6, 2011 at 12:07 pm
Lovely stuff — the baked porkchop rice! Do let us know when you are back for the shot mate!
And I reckon some might not like being going in and out of Temple Street for whatever reason… hehe…
October 6, 2011 at 10:31 pm
At that time of day (we were there on Sunday at about 1ish) that part of Temple Street is fairly quiet and the market had yet to appear. I did visit that part of YMT a while back at nighttime (with kids in tow – on one of their very rare late nights) with some friends from the US and we stopped by at the dessert place opposite and had some great coconut style puddings. It was pretty busy by that time but nothing too untoward taking place.
October 7, 2011 at 8:57 pm
Ah I see… well what I was alluding to was when I first browsed thru the Temple Street Markets it was all going along nicely with the usual knick-knacks and fake antiques until I got to the part when they were selling adult toys… right in front of the temple too… which was an interesting contrast!
October 7, 2011 at 9:35 pm
hehe – I see. Yes, I must admit my very first trip (in fact probably my very first ever night in HK) I was whisked away to Temple St by my friend and his uncle who thought I need to experience a night market and saw those things lined up like an Iraqi parade of SCUD rockets.
One question: are those things brand new? They all look like used-goods to me (some more used than others) haha! *eek*…*belch*…*retch*…